GREATBASIN NEWFOUNDLANDS !!!
CARING FOR A MEMBER OF THE FAMILY part 2
ABOUT US & OUR BREEDING PROGRAM PART 1
J. SOCIALIZATION:
From the time your puppy was born it was handled by many people. Washing machines, dryers, television sets, radios, vacuum cleaners & telephones were a normal part of its day. His Breeder spent a tremendous amount of time with each puppy in the litter exposing them to all of life's little wonders. When you picked up your puppy, the Breeder strongly recommended puppy kindergarten or obedience school. You've heard many people say "I don't need a training class, my dog behaves beautifully in the yard". Well, what happens when that owner is walking the dog down the street & they encounter another dog? Or, when they are at the Bets office & that well behaved dog suddenly becomes terrified when confronted with all those other dogs & cats? What's happening? The dog wasn't "socialized". In other words, it wasn't taught to behave around other animals in a variety of situations. One way to help puppy with social skill is puppy directions, share, play nicely & learn the alphabet. Puppy kindergarten is basically the same. Puppies learn to listen to their owners. Not growl when a toy is taken away, become accustomed to strangers & other puppies, strange objects such as umbrellas & folding chairs. They also learn a few basic commands such as come & stay in a loving, reassuring manner. In other words, they learn social skills. These social skills create mentally "sound" dogs. Because they have been exposed to a variety of situations, slowly. They are stable in just about any situation. Imagine a dog about a year old that has lived in a very quiet house & or neighborhood. Every time the garbage trucks come down the street the dog barks frantically & tears around the house. At the Vet's office it tucks its tail between its legs & growls at other dogs. It shies away from the Vet. One day construction starts on the empty lot next door. The tailgate of the dump truck slams shut with a loud resounding "BANG"! The puppy takes off like a shot, hiding behind the sofa, shaking fiercely & wets on the floor. Because this dog hasn't seen another dog since it was a baby puppy, all it wants to do is charge the other dogs. Frustrated because of the dog's lack of attention & seeming inability to learn, the owner drops out of school then several months later, the dog ends up in the pound, unwanted & terrified.
If this dog has been properly socialized, in all likelihood none of the above would have happened. Study after study has shown that properly socialized puppies are easier to train. We all know that a well behaved dog is a lot easier to love. While you can't prepare a dog for everything that will happen in it's life, you can teach it to not be fearful. If you start early & work hard with a lot of love & kindness you will end up with a dog that you can take anywhere. Puppy kindergarten classes are usually held by clubs or trainers that also offer regular obedience classes. These classes are very structured with very specific rules such as: puppies must have proof of vaccination (prevent spread or outbreak of disease) & be a certain age or weight (so you don't have a 9 month, 90 lbs puppy playing with a 3 month, 30lb pup)! To locate a class in your area, talk with your Vet or Newfie club. They are a good source of information. Ask if they know of any dog clubs or dog training clubs in your area. Dog clubs, training clubs can sometimes be difficult to locate as the members are volunteers & the organizations are nonprofit. This means that their phone numbers normally aren't listed in the phone book. But many will run ads in the paper (usually Sunday) announcing the start of obedience classes. Watch for Dog Show or Match announcements. These can also help you track down a "Kennel Club". While you are sitting in your Vet's waiting room, ask the owners of other puppies or dogs if they know of any good trainers. Check the newspapers under the animals for sale column or your local yellow pages. Classes, though sometimes are hard to find, are out there & lots of fun, track one down for your puppy's mental health, it's well worth it.
K. FENCING:
A Newf puppy needs to spend time outside exercising in his new kingdom. As he grows, this circle of exploration increases, so too, go the possible dangers. Cars, garbage cans, children, wild animals, extreme heat & cold, & chemicals are a few examples of deadly encounters your pup may face if left to roam. For these, & many more reasons, an outside home should be constructed. Many factors should be considered when building a home for your new four footed friend. This issue will be the start with the basics, location & fencing. The major decision to make is: do we fence in the whole yard or just a portion. Ideally, a fenced in yard with a run inside is best. (When we use the term "run", we don't men a wire strung from tree to tree, we mean an enclosure with four sides). This way, when you are home, you can supervise your pups play in the yard. He can be taught no to dig in the flower beds, chew the vinyl siding, or the garden hose. When you are away, he can be safely placed in the run, away from all the hazards of the yard. As with any type of construction, you should think about the weather. Are your normal temperatures hot, warm or cold? Do you have torrential rains, blizzards? Which direction are the prevailing winds? These factors all enter into the placement of your pups run. If you live in the southern climates, you should consider an area that gets the most shade year round. If you live in the northern climates where snow abounds, perhaps an area that is shaded during the summer months only. This would allow the sun to help melt the snow during the winter. No matter what your climate, there should always be a part of the run with shade. If you have no trees, this may be accomplished by covering the run with a tarp or sun blocking run cover. Try to avoid square shapes as these tend to encourage "circling". Next, give some thought to your neighbors (if you have any) & deliverymen. What will the run look like from their point of view? Will the pup be able to see them coming & going? Will this cause the pup to start barking? Will their children harass the pup? Will the run block access to the oil-fill pipe or the electric meter? How about the septic system? Giving a little thought to what your neighbors will see & hear may help "keep the peace".
Now that you have picked the area, what about fencing? Stockade is to limiting, chain link is too "security" picket isn't high enough. What about a combination of fences! Use stockade to give your back yard privacy, chain link for the run & picket for the front yard. If using any type of fence (like 3 rail) with gaps between the boards, attach weld wire to cover the gaps. Think about where you will need gates & their size. Two strategically placed 8-10 foot gates will allow nearly all types of trucks & equipment access to your yard. When ever possible, use self closing gates that open into your yard. This will help prevent your dogs escape because a gate was open & also keep your dog from pushing the gate open! The size of the run greatly depends on the amount of time your pup will spend in it. The more time your pup spends in the run the bigger it needs to be. Minimum size, for proper exercise, is 12 ft x 12 ft. Under no circumstances should the run be less than 6 ft tall. While most Newfs aren't "jumpers", past experience has shown that under certain circumstances a Newf will clear a 5 ft fence. Should you decide to fence your yard before building a run, there are two very important rules to remember. NEVER put your pup in the yard with his collar on. Collars can easily become tangled & your pup may strangle himself. Also, NEVER leave your dog alone in a yard with less than 6 ft high fencing. You never know when a stray may jump over the fence or your dog may decide to leave.
L. HEALTHCARE:
You've waited & waited & the time to bring your new puppy home is rapidly approaching. CALL YOUR VET. Don't wait until you bring your puppy home! Get an appointment to check your puppy. Your Vet is your first line of defense for your puppies good health. If your Vet knows you are getting a puppy they can offer invaluable pro puppy advice such as how to puppy proof your home, flea & tick control, various forms of heartworm preventative & vaccination & worming schedules. He will also tell you what information you need to get from your Breeder, in addition to the Vaccination & worming medication already given, to help keep your puppy on the track to good health. Since many Breeders give you a time limit to take your puppy to the Vet for that first exam, read your contract carefully & make sure you schedule your first appointment accordingly. Give your pup a day to settle in & then take him in for the all important first exam. Make sure you take all your puppy papers with you so you will have the records of all vaccinations & worming already given. After a thorough exam (eyes, ears, teeth, coat, weight, heart, gastrointestinal to name a few)! your Vet will let you know when & what the next appointment will entail. A puppy usually sees the Vet 3-4 times from the time you take him home until age of 6 months. This ensures that he is growing properly (appropriate weight), is parasite free (no intestinal worms) & is up to date on his inoculations. To make this experience enjoyable for your pup, take lots of tiny little treats. Give them to all members of the Vet team to give to the pup. Let them make a big deal over him & tell him what a good pup he is (who can resist a 9-10 week old Newf pup)! Ask them if you can stop by from time to time for a quick visit so your pup will begin to love going to the Vets! In between Vet visits, keep a list of questions you would like to ask with your pup's health records. This way you won't get home & say "I forgot to ask..."
Try to keep your pup away from other dogs for a few weeks. Your pup's immunities are still developing & you don't know what ailments another dog might have. Proper socialization need not be interrupted if you are careful about where you go & what dogs you meet. Most puppy kindergarten classes require that you bring your puppy's shot record with you so that they are assured your puppy is getting his shots & that the spread of disease is minimized. In other words, don't take your 2 month old puppy to a dog show!!! Once your pup has received his permanent shots (usually around 6 months of age), your Vet will want to see him at least once a year. This yearly exam is essential. All booster shots will be given along with a thorough exam. Don't think that you can wait a month or two past the due date to get that parvo, rabies or distemper booster. These diseases still appear & are life threatening! In the Northeast Rabies is on the rise & we still have outbreaks of Parvo. Yearly examinations also detect any changes that may need to be treated as your dog gets older. Don't be afraid to call your Vet should you feel something isn't right. That's what he's there for! When you do call, don't simply say "Puppy doesn't feel good" The more specific you are the more it will help your Vet diagnose the problem. If your pup has gotten into something he shouldn't (he dragged the old turkey carcass out of the trash or he drank out of the bucket that had some old motor oil in it) call the Vet immediately. Many substances are harmful to animals & immediate treatment is necessary.
M. HOUSEBREAKING:
Housebreaking isn't difficult if you follow a couple of very basic rules. The most important are "when in doubt take them out". "Praise, praise, praise," & "be consistent". Let's start with "take them out". All dogs will give you some kind of sign that they have to go out. All you have to do is figure it out. Typically, you will see circling & sniffing. Once the sighs are given, immediately scoop the pup up & take the puppy out. Mind you, you have just interrupted the puppy's train of thought & it will take a few minutes for the puppy to remember what he was going to do. Many times we bring them in too early only to have them potty in the house. Give them plenty of time especially at the beginning. When you see the signs, give the deed a name. "Go potty, time to go" come to mind. Be consistent & use the same name & place every time. After all, when you teach "sit" you use the same name each & every time. Once the deed is done "praise, praise, praise", then praise some more. This helps to get your point across. Never severely reprimand the puppy for going potty in the house. Remember all dogs give a sign you missed it. If caught in the act in the house, say "NO! OUTSIDE! And pick the pup up & take it out.
Rain, snow, sleet, hail, hurricane or dark of night never ignore a sign, not even once. This will only confuse the puppy. Avoiding mixed signals reinforces what you are teaching. In other words, consistency is the key. When do puppies have to go potty? Immediately upon awakening, even after naps, when excited (like when it sees you after an absence), after eating or drinking, after playing, & just because. Yes, all the time. This is where "when in doubt" comes in. Don't give your pup a chance to fail!!
Here are some additional tips that will make housetraining a little easier:
1. Feed your pup at the same time every day.
2. Make notes as to the actual time when puppy goes potty. this will help
you to see just how often you need to take the puppy out.
3. Limit water before bedtime.
4. Keep the water bucket outside, which will help reinforce "outside".
5. Never leave puppy unattended in the house this is asking for an accident.
6. if puppy is outside during the day, don't come straight into the house
when you bring the pup in. Typically that little walk will generate an
"accident" upon coming in. Spend a little time outside before entering the house.
7. Don't expect your puppy to be able to hold it for long. It's unfair to
leave the puppy in a crate for 3 hours or so during the day, especially
when you first bring her home.
8. It always takes longer to train for urination.
9. Remember to always clean up after your dog & to take plastic bag
when you go for a walk.
10. When does a puppy go potty: When he wakes up, after eating, after
playing, after a nap, & a lot, lot more.
N. CRATE TRAINING:
Your Breeder strongly recommended you purchase a crate for a puppy & told you why. Even though you understand that it's for the safety of your dog you still aren't quite sure you want your dog in a cage. First, it's not a cage. It's a crate, a kennel, a little house, a room, a bed, or whatever you want to call it, anything but a cage. A cage is something that animals are never let out of. A crate is used for the safety & comfort of a dog. When your puppy isn't in his crate, notice where he chooses to sleep: under the coffee or dining room table; in the little space between your couch & the wall; in a corner somewhere out of the way. Why? Because your dog is a "den dwelling animal". Dens provide safety & solace, & your dog will come to think of his crate as such.
1. A crate is you dogs seat belt.
A. A crated dog can't interfere with your driving.
B. In an accident, your dog needs something to prevent it from
becoming a flying object.
C. A crate keeps your dog confined should your doors pup open.
2. A crate is your where he will sleep securely during the night, safe & sound.
3. A crate is where you puppy will stay when unattended & in the
house. This prevents puppy from destroying & soiling in your house;
consuming noxious plants or garbage & escaping out the house
through a forgotten, open door.
4. A crate is a safe haven where puppy can escape to when the
world is just too much (kids, cats, illness, etc.).
5. A crate is NOT to be used for punishment EVER!!
Purchase your crate before bringing your puppy home. Place the crate in an area where the family spends most of their time like the kitchen or the family room. The goal is to confine the puppy without isolating him from his family. At night, it can be consoling for the pup to sleep in his crate placed in a bedroom of one of his family members. Once again, the den dwelling animal instinct is being satisfied. Encourage the pup to enter his crate by rewarding him each time with a small edible treat (remember, a growing pup is always watching his weight). Favorite toys in the crate will also ease the transition of acceptance. Feeding a pup while crated will further enhance the feeling of comfort & security. Make sure that the puppy is allowed to relieve himself outside before any crating, especially at bedtime. Do rush puppy out first thing in the morning. Remember, he is just a baby & will have to go out to potty early. Don't worry about the pup when you hear him complaining about his new confinement. Don't rush to console him because that is exactly what he wants you to do. You will be encouraging him to continue barking & he will be effectively training you to rush to his rescue! There are many different kinds of crates & it can be very confusing when trying to pick one out. Don't buy a small crate because your puppy will be very large at the end of his first year. Buy a crate that will fit a full grown Newf. The crate should be large enough that, when full grown, your dog can stand up, turn around & lie down comfortably. Don't buy a plastic crate. While they are easy to clean, they are also easy to chew & don't provide enough ventilation. A sturdy wire crate with good door latches is your best bet. Be advised though, a good crate is expensive ($100-200) but it's an investment for the life of your dog & well worth it.
O. HOMEBUILDING & FLOOR COVERINGS:
To begin, you must think about temperature. Just how cold or hot does it get? If it's very hot, think about adding a porch so your Newf can take advantage of the summer breeze. If it's very cold, an insulated dog house is the answer. Now for size, a dog house should be high enough for a dog to stand up without bumping its head. Length & width should be slightly longer than the dog from nose to rump. Basically, a 3ft high x 4 ft long x4 ft wide structure is just fine for a Newf. These figures make it easy when planning for building materials & minimize leftovers. BE FOREWARNED & PLAN AHEAD!!! If you've decided Newfies are the breed for you & plan to get another in the future, consider building a double occupancy house. A "fake" wall is easily added which can be removed later. Plywood & 2 x 4's are the basic building materials required. Pressure treated lumber is fine for fence posts but shouldn't be used for dog houses as it's treated with poisons. Many people use "Texture T1-11", a plywood with grooves every 6" or so running the length of the sheet. This dresses up the outside, eliminating the need for exterior finishes (shingles or clapboard) & helps the water run off the roof. Cinder blocks work well as a foundation, which may or may not be placed in a shallow trench. A foundation helps to prevent insect & water damage & helps to prevent settling & digging. If you are insulating your dog house make sure that there is no way your dog can get to the insulation. If ingested, insulation can do major damage to a dogs internal organs. Plywood over the insulation on the inside does the trick. Check the inside & outside of the house to make sure there aren't nails sticking out. Many people recommend lift off or hinged roofs for easy cleaning. Door shape is up to your own individual taste but must be large enough for the dog to enter with a slight duck of the head. Too big an opening allows rain, snow & wind to enter negating the purpose of the house in the first place. Last but perhaps the most important is the placement of the finished dog house. The dog house should never be placed on the outside of any fence or run. Your dog house shouldn't be placed against the fence because believe it or not, Newfies can & do jump or climb! The safest place is in the center of the run. This also adds something for the dog to run around for enjoyment. Many times I see my own dogs playing sneak a peek around the dog house. Placing a dog house in the center of a run also affords shade at varying locations throughout the day.
Make no mistake, that lovely grass that surrounds your dogs house will be beaten into a muddy mess in just a few short months. Once this happens you must decide how to keep your dog clean. The most economical floor covering is what New Englanders call washed pea stone. This is a washed (smooth no sharp edges) stone. In varying colors, slightly bigger than a pea but not larger than a grape. these are the rocks that re removed from the screening process when grading sand. Depending on your current type of soil, 1 cubic yard (1 1/4 ton) will cover a 10ft area about 3" deep. FAIR WARNING! You will have to replace the stone as it will disappear into the ground. It's a never ending battle & we often wonder just where it all goes! You may want to line the outside of the run with telephone poles or garden timbers to keep the stone inside the run. We prefer to use washed sand which you can get from any cement plant. Materials to avoid are: pine bark (most are treated with chemicals to prevent decomposition), gavel (usually has sharp edges), & stone dust (sticks to everything). Any dog would appreciate something nice & soft to sleep n inside his house. Old blankets, straw carpet samples (those 2 ft x 3 ft pieces from the discontinued carpet books) will do just fine. Indoor outdoor & stain resistant carpets should be avoided as they are treated with chemicals that, if urinated on, will emit toxic gasses.